Ficus Trees Family Classification Overview by Ficustrees.info

The ficus is a genre of approximately 800 species and 2,000 varieties most of which are native to the Old World tropics. The species consists of a large array of plants, ranging from woody evergreen or leaf losing trees, shrubs and climbing plants, to vines. Some can be found growing naturally in the tropical forests of West Africa, India, and Malaya where they might grow to a height of 50 feet, or they can be grown; and are fairly controllable and attractive, as a small tree in California along the Southern coastal areas. And several are exceptional for outdoor cultivation in southern Florida where they attain heights of about 25 feet.

One particular species; the Common Fig F carica, produces a commercial fruit called the fig. There are many other fig plants such as Banyans and the Sacred Fig, which produce edible fruit, but they are not as widely consumed.

Related to the edible fig, the Ficus doesn’t bear fruit; it is however, the most popular indoor tree for homes and offices. The Ficus lyrata, or fiddle-leaf fig, and the popular benjamina, or weeping fig (this plant is a staple today for the interior plant industry) are just a few of the several species of ficus that grow well indoors.

Ficus have the reputation for being finicky due to the special watering guidelines, its requirement of bright, indirect light, and the need for temperatures between 60 and 72 degrees. In fact, one of the most common problems when faced with caring for a ficus, is sudden leaf drop off. Don’t overreact to occasional leaf drops. Instead, mist the plant. Don’t over water a ficus: feel the soil before you water, and if it feels damp, wait a day.

These are three main characteristics that summarize what you should be looking for when caring for a ficus plant: (a) adapting to a new environment (to add to the challenge, they drop leaves each time they are moved, even within the same room), (b) over/under watering (Allow the plant to dry out slightly between watering), and (c) insects (look for webbing, sticky leaves, and spotted leaves.)

Historical Significance

In June 2006, it was reported that just 8 miles north of ancient Jericho, in a village in the Lower Jordan Valley, at Gilgal I, figs dating back 11,400 years were discovered. Because they were of a mutation which could not reproduce normally, there is evidence that figs were among the first cultivated crop. It is proposed that they may have been planted and cultivated intentionally, one thousand years before the next crops were domesticated (wheat and rye).

Figs were also a common food eaten by Romans.

SCIENTIFIC CLASSIFICATION

KINGDOM: Plantae

DIVISION: Magnoliophyta

CLASS: Magnoliopsida

ORDER: Rosales

FAMILY: Moraceae

GENUS: Ficus

LIST OF COMMON SPECIES

• Ficus altissima (Council Tree or Lofty Fig)

• Ficus aurea (Strangler Fig or Golden Fig)

• Ficus benghalensis (Indian Banyan)

• Ficus benjamina (The Weeping Fig or Benjamin’s Fig)

• Ficus carica (Fig or Common Fig)

• Ficus citrifolia (Strangler Fig or Short leaf Fig)

• Ficus coronata (Creek Sandpaper Fig)

• Ficus drupacea (Hairy Fig or Brown Woolly Fig)

• Ficus elastica (Rubber Fig, Rubber Tree, Rubber Plant, or Indian Rubber Tree)

• Ficus lyrata (Fiddle Leaf Fig)

• Ficus macrophylla (Moreton Bay Fig)

• Ficus microcarpa (Chinese Banyan or Malayan Banyan)

• Ficus palmata (Wild Fig)

• Ficus pumila (Creeping Fig or Climbing Fig)

• Ficus racemosa (Cluster Fig)

• Ficus religiosa (Sacred Fig or Bo Tree)

• Ficus sycomorus (Sycamore Fig or the Fig-Mulberry)

Growing Ficus Trees Indoors Overview by Ficustrees.info

Coveted in interior decorating for its splendid beauty, and yet avoided for its temperamental nature, the ficus is the most popular indoor tree. Several species grow well indoors, and also come in a variety of leaf colors and shapes and each variety has its own growing needs. The most common ficus house plants include Ficus lyrata, or fiddle-leaf fig, the popular F. benjamina, or weeping fig, and the renowned Ficus elastica, or Rubber Tree. Even though the ficus can be a challenging plant, it can also be a very rewarding plant to grow.

Ficus have the reputation for being finicky due to the special watering guidelines, its requirement of bright, indirect light, and the need for temperatures between 60 and 72 degrees. Ficus survive in low interior light, but the best house plant care is bright filtered light (position this house plant near a south window). The Ficus needs to adapt to its location.

Ficus may drop leaves in response to any change in their environment, including a move to a new location (sometimes, even when moving to a different spot in the same room), a draft or a change in temperature. In fact, one of the most common problems when faced with caring for a ficus, is sudden leaf drop off. Don’t overreact to occasional leaf drops. Instead, mist the plant. Don’t over-water a ficus; feel the soil before you water, and if it feels damp, wait a day.

One of the most important factors that comes into play when caring for the ficus house plant is the Moisture level, or the amount you’re watering (this is where most house plants are lost). The ficus tends to require a moist soil, and not soggy. Water the house plant pot until water runs out of the bottom, and don’t let this house plant’s soil dry out between watering. In fact, the best way to water an indoor ficus is by using a sub-irrigation system.

When growing indoors, I recommend potting your ficus; they like to be pot bound. And only need to be re-potted every 2-3 years, although some will grow rapidly enough that yearly re-potting may be necessary. By potting your ficus, the size can be controlled by regularly pruning it and putting it back into the same pot. The stems can also be cut back to the desired height and will produce new, compact growth. Although there are; of course, specific guidelines as to when you should prune your ficus, pruning in the fall or winter can leave you with a sad looking plant that will look “newly pruned” for months to come. The late spring or early summer are the best times to prune. Remember to clean your clippers or scissors with alcohol after each plant you trim to prevent the spread of diseases or insects.

Common Indoor Ficus Plants

Ficus Lyrata (Bold Fiddle Leaf Fig) - The Fiddle Leaf fig loves bight indirect light, to bright shade and it doesn’t like to get cold; it prefers an area where it’s not in direct contact with drafts, and is not in direct contact with a heat source.

Ficus Elastica (Rubber Tree) - Rubber plants like bright light, but never direct sun.

Ficus Benjamina (Benjamin Fig) - The Benjamin Fig does best under bright, sunny conditions, but will also tolerate considerable shade. But do be aware that direct sunlight and a combination of very dry air can lead to problems with spider mites.

Growing Ficus Plants Outdoors Information Overview

The ficus used to be a very popular plant for outdoor landscaping, but due to its history with disturbing septic lines, cracking concrete walkways, and even causing major damage to buildings and foundations, landscape designers and architects tend to rethink the use of this plant.

The damage is caused by the ficus’ aggressive root system, and the unexpected tree sizes. These trees tend to be treated and cared for more like hedges (most of the time) rather than trees. Realize, that after you plant a ficus outside, the plant doesn’t magically turn into a hedge; the plant still knows it’s a tree, a very large tree, and will still try and grow to its full size. I wouldn’t advise using the ficus plant in your outdoor landscaping. Although, if you don’t mind leaving your ficus planted in a pot; rather than in the ground, than go for it (ficus plants’ roots are much easier to control if they are pot bound). Just as long as the growing conditions are optimal, you should have no problems. Also, placing your pot bound ficus outside during the summer is very common, and the tree loves the direct sunlight!

Growing Ficus Trees Outdoors

• Light and Shade - Full sunlight is needed for many plants to assume their full potential. Full sun usually means 6 or more hours of direct unobstructed sunlight on a sunny day. Many of these plants will do fine with a little less sunlight, although they may not flower as heavily or their foliage as vibrant. Partial sun receives less than 6 hours of sun, but more than 3 hours. Ficus plants are able to take full sun in some climates, but may only be able to tolerate part sun in other climates. Know the culture of the plant before you buy and plant it!

• Replacing Soil - For container grown plants, replace most of the soil in the tub every three years and keep the sides of the tub shaded to prevent overheating in sunlight.

• Watering - Young ficus tees should be watered regularly until fully established. In dry western climates, water mature trees deeply at least every one or two weeks. Desert gardeners may have to water more frequently. Mulch the soil around the trees to conserve moisture. If a tree is not getting enough water, the leaves will turn yellow and drop. The ficus tends to require a moist soil, and not soggy.

• Pruning - Fig trees are productive with or without heavy pruning. It is essential only during the initial years. If extreme pruning is done, whitewash the entire tree.

• Fertilization - Fertilizing your ficus should pretty much be done at your own discretion. If you’d prefer your plant to be larger and more robust, than I’d recommend using a fertilizer during your ficus’ growth stage (during the spring and summer when the sunlight intensifies), and avoid fertilizing during the fall and winter. Since the ficus’ growth rate is slow, be sure to fertilize at the recommended label rate every two or three months, or fertilize every seventh watering (depending on the growth rate of your plant, and your desired size). Regular fertilizing of figs is usually necessary only for potted trees or when they are grown on sands.

• Frost Protection - In borderline climates, ficus can be grown outdoors if they are given frost protection. One solution would be to place your ficus plant against a wall or structure; this provides the plant with some source of heat by radiation. Keep the roots as dry as possible during winter, raising a berm to exclude melting snows during thaws. In northern climates, the fig is best grown as a tub or pot plant that can be brought into a warm location in winter and taken out again in spring. Dormant buds are more susceptible to freezing than wood. Freezing may also create a trunk without live buds; re-growth is possible only from roots.

• Ficus Temperature - The ficus plant requires a pretty steady, unchanging environment. For optimal plant growth, the ficus likes temperatures between 60 and 72 degrees F (ficus trees love warm conditions). In the evening the ficus doesn’t require as much heat, in fact, it prefers cooler temperatures (this is more desirable for plant growth). On the other hand; cold, drafty conditions will slow the Ficus’ growth considerably. In fact, your ficus may drop leaves in response to any change in its environment (temperature, light, humidity etc). So if you live in an area that cools down significantly in the evenings, it might be a good idea to bring your ficus tree indoors during the cooler seasons.

Ficus Trees Care & Culture Overview

Information about the care and culture of ficus plants and flowers including ideal light, temperature, humidity, ventilation, water, potting and fertilization.

The following information are tips not ficus plant specific, but more general, due to new varieties of Ficus plants that are being developed and improved upon for durability and versatility, to withstand the average household conditions (rather, to better withstand lack of care).

Watering Ficus

One of the most important factors that come into play when caring for the ficus house plant is the Moisture level (or the amount you’re watering). Accounting for a large percentage of ficus plant deaths is the act of over and under-watering a plant.

The ficus tends to require a moist soil, and not soggy. Water the house plant pot until water runs out of the bottom, and don’t let this house plant’s soil dry out between watering, wait until the top half of the soil has dried out. The ficus’ soil tends to dry out, it’s important not to overcompensate by watering too much. This could result in your plant’s leaves yellowing and possibly falling off. In fact, the best way to water an indoor ficus is by using a sub-irrigation system.

Ficus Light

Every plant requires a certain amount of light, this is necessary for all plants because they use this energy source for photosynthesis. The Ficus can survive low interior light but really prefers bright, indirect sunlight or filtered light. I’ve found that positioning a ficus house plant near a south window works great.

Of course there are specific guidelines for each species. The kind with plain green foliage tolerates more shade than do the variegated ones (the ones that have streaks, marks or patches of a different color) such as F. benjamina Variegata’ or F. benjamina ‘Starlight.’ These types of Ficus must have a few hours of bright light each day, or the leaves will most likely lose their coloring and sharp contrasts, and may even drop off.

Fertilizing Ficus

Fertilizing your ficus should pretty much be done at your own discretion. If you’d prefer your plant to be larger and more robust, than I’d recommend using a fertilizer during your ficus’ growth stage (during the spring and summer when the sunlight intensifies), and avoid fertilizing during the fall and winter. Since the ficus’ growth rate is slow, be sure to fertilize at the recommended label rate every two or three months, or fertilize every seventh watering (depending on the growth rate of your plant, and your desired size).

As I’ve said before; the indoor ficus plant grows slower, so you should keep the ficus’ food intake capacity lower if you like to keep a smaller, more manageable plant (fertilizing isn’t really needed).

Potting Ficus

I recommend potting your ficus; they like to be pot bound. And only need to be re-potted every 2-3 years, although some will grow rapidly enough that yearly re-potting may be necessary. By potting your ficus, the size can be controlled by regularly pruning it and putting it back into the same pot. The stems can also be cut back to the desired height and will produce new, compact growth.

Ficus Temperature

Unlike most house plants that can tolerate a more unstable living environment, the ficus plant requires a pretty steady, unchanging environment. For optimal plant growth, keep temperatures between 60 and 72 degrees F (ficus trees love warm conditions). In the evening the ficus doesn’t require as much heat, in fact, it prefers cooler temperatures (more desirable for plant growth). On the other hand; cold, drafty conditions will slow the Ficus’ growth considerably. In fact, your ficus may drop leaves in response to any change in its environment (temperature, light, humidity etc).

Ficus Humidity and Ventilation

For ficus plant growth to be at its optimal level, it’s important to remember that the plant needs about 25-30% humidity. A great way to raise the humidity in your home (around your ficus), would be to group some of your other house plants close together. Be sure to avoid placing your ficus in an area where there could potentially be a direct heat source blowing on it.

Ficus Tree Propagation Information Overview by Ficustrees.info

The Ficus is one of the easiest plants to propagate. One of the most efficient ways is to root from branch cuttings. Although the specifics for each species varies for maximum success. So if you own a ficus and aren’t sure if your particular species can be propagated in this fashion, my suggestion is that it never hurts to give it a shot and see. It’s always worth putting cuttings into the soil just to see if you come up with some baby ficus. I’ve found that when doing nothing special except the initial dose of fertilizer, my success has been about 80%!

Using larger diameter cuttings from your ficus, prune off all access side branches, and all but one or two leaves at the top, leaving you with a shorter stub or stick. After you’ve done this, stick your cuttings in the soil, or depending on what kind of ficus you are propagating, you may also use very coarse sand or fine gravel (a little smaller than bb’s). At least one node (the point on a stem where leaves are attached and buds form) should be below the surface. Cover the cutting’s in the soil, and make sure that there is plenty of light available (but not full contact with the sun). To increase humidity tenting can be helpful. The soil’s temperature provides optimal success when it’s between 70-75 degrees F., so a propagation mat may also be very useful.

Asexual propagation is the most common method for cultivated plants. As I’ve explained in more depth in the paragraphs above; propagation can be done by planting cuttings. Another method which seems to work very well is air layering. This method requires you, the propagator, to cut a slit in the plant’s stem (bearing in mind this will be your new tree, so choose your branch with this in mind). You should then see the plant’s latex sap, which will be oozing from the incision you’ve just made. The wound, which oozes with the plant’s latex sap, should then be packed with a rooting hormone. After this has been done you’ll want to either pack damp vermiculite and sand around the wound, or wrap the wound tightly with moist sphagnum moss (the moss is able to hold large quantities of water inside their cells). When you’ve done either of the two, cover the cutting with plastic, sealing at either end.

This process should take about six weeks for roots to start appearing. After six weeks have passed, check to see if roots are there, if so, then cut the excess branch right off. If the roots have already established themselves enough to grow on their own, then your new roots are ready to be potted. If the roots are not quite done after the six weeks, then plant your roots in a bag and keep them well watered until the roots have established. After the roots have established the new plant is ready to be potted on its own.

Ficus Plant and “Flower” Blooming Information Overview

Unlike your typical flower bloom, the ficus bare a fruit-like structure that is referred to as syconia. These special fruits are actually special structures bearing minute male and female flowers on the inside. The fruit is an almost closed vessel with many small flowers arranged on the inner surface. So really the flowers of the fig would remain hidden unless the fig was cut open (they are inside-out flowers).

The syconia has a bulbous shape with a small opening (ostiole) at the furthest end away from the branch, that allows access to tiny minute fig wasps (pollinators). Without these pollinators, fig trees can’t reproduce by seed.

Fig wasps grow in capri figs (short-style flower) but not in female figs (the female trees’ female flower part is too long for the wasp to successfully lay her eggs in). The minute fig wasps use the fleshy, hollow structures lined on the inside with numerous tiny flowers, almost like little condos. The syconia provide this service for species-specific symbiotic wasp that pollinates the internal female flowers. Giving the next generation of wasps all the necessary nourishment.

There is typically only one species of wasp capable of fertilizing the flowers of each species of fig, and therefore plantings of fig species outside of their native range results in effectively sterile individuals. For example, in Hawaii, some 60 species of figs have been introduced, but only four of the wasps that fertilize them have been introduced, so only four species of figs produce viable seeds there.

Figs are considered a “keystone” species because they are so important to the animals of the rainforests. This is because the figs bear fruit several times a year; different figs fruit at different times so that there is always a supply of food for the animals that depend on fruit as a major part of their diet. In some forests up to 70% of its animal’s diets depend on figs, and the number of fruit-eaters determines the number of predators of fruit-eaters.

Commercial Potential

Because of the loss of crops during the time of transportation; due to such a short shelf life, figs are high-value fruits of limited demand. For shipping, figs are collected daily just before they reach the fully ripe stage. The best place to purchase is direct sale at roadside or farmers markets.

Fig Season

Fig trees usually bear 2 crops a year, the early season (”breba”) fruits being inferior and frequently too acidic (but the animals don’t mind), and only those of the second, or “main” crop, are of actual value.

In Colombia and Venezuela, some fruits are born throughout the year, but as stated before, have 2 principal crops, one in May and June and the other in December and January.

In California; where they produce fig on a Large-scale, they spray ethephon (plant growth regulator) to speed up ripening. They then use wind-machines; drawn past the trees, or helicopter over-flights are made to speed up fruit drop, thus shortening the harvest period by as much as 10 days in order to avoid impending rain and insect attack. Proper timing of the growth regulator is crucial to fruit quality.

Common Fruit Bearing Ficus

• Ficus altissima - yellow fruit; as opposed to red.

• Ficus aurea - small, spherical “fruits” which are eaten by birds.

• Ficus benghalensis - fruit in axillary pairs, the size of a cherry, round and downy.

• Ficus coronata - there is black fruit on the trunk and branches. The fruit is fleshy and edible, and is savored by birds.

• Ficus macrophylla - produces a [barely] edible fruit similar to the common Fig, Ficus carica.

• Ficus microcarpa - Pink to red fruit, very attractive to birds.

• Ficus palmate - The fruits are often sold in local markets in the Himalayas. There is a potential for commercial cultivation.

• Ficus racemosa - Fruits are born in clusters on the branches and trunk, and are edible.

• Ficus religiosa - The Bo-Tree has purple figs.

Ficus Plant Family Insects Information Overview

The number one preventative measure to take when dealing with the common indoor and outdoor insects (for ficus) is prevention itself. You should always make sure that you are regularly cleaning your plants leaves. A consistent washing or spraying of the foliage with warm water will minimize or prevent problems. In fact I give my ficus a shower right in my bath-tub. I just place the ficus in its pot, in the tub, shut the curtain, and let the warm water from the shower give it a bath! Not only does this enhance the plant’s overall appearance, but it removes pests as well.

Insect infestations can become a problem quickly for your ficus. So make sure that if your ficus tree is summered outdoors, you may want to check the plant very carefully before bringing it back into your home. The most noticeable signs of an infestation would be visible webbing, sticky, or spotted leaves. Also, remember to clean your clippers or scissors with alcohol after each plant you trim to prevent the spread of diseases or insects.

The three most common insects on Ficus are spider mites, scale and mealy bug. Each of these is a crawling insect that sucks plant sap and then secretes a sticky substance onto the surface of the leaves. This substance is referred to as ‘honeydew’. In a severe infestation, the honeydew will drip from the plant onto lower leaves, carpet and furnishings. The infestation may also result in leaves yellowing, and then dropping.

I do not recommend any pesticides because they are all hazardous to use, and are not 100% effective. But if infestation has already begun than one of your best bets would be to use the following non-toxic treatment: Brand X Foliage Cleaner. It is a silicon-based product so it is very slippery. Its ability to penetrate is probably the key to its effectiveness because it gets into the tiny crevices that other sprays miss. You can also put together your own home remedies using the following concoctions:

• Dish soap and warm water (about 1 tablespoon per pint)

• Rubbing alcohol(and about ½ teaspoon soap)

• Murphy’s oil soap, Dr. Bronner’s Peppermint pure-castile soap

• Cheyenne pepper, Tabasco, jalapeno juice, garlic extract

Note: These home remedies are usually diluted with water. You’ll have to experiment to see what works, and to see what is gentle on the plant.

Common Ficus Plant Insects

Mealy Bugs - In the early stages of their dwelling, the mealy bugs will sometimes appear in a few single white cottony blobs. After they’ve inhabited your plant for a little while, these individual blobs turn into larger cottony masses which are covered in white waxy threads and a waxy coating which makes them so difficult to eliminate. They situate themselves in the nooks and crannies of your plants, where it’s hard to spray or treat them. They can be found on leaves; the axil (where the leaves join the stem), stems and roots (root mealy bug).

Scale Bugs - Scale insects are hard to identify because they don’t look like bugs and don’t appear to move. They are oval, slightly raised bumps about an eighth of an inch long and are usually found along leaf stems or on the undersides of leaves. In the juvenile or crawler stage, scales are translucent and take on the color of the leaf or stem surface. As they mature, scales develop a hard, dark brown shell that is more visible (the shell protects the scale babies underneath).

Spider Mites - If you notice that the leaves and stem of your ficus are starting to bronze in color, followed by a web-like material on the bottom sides of the plant’s leaves, than your culprit is probably the spider mite. The bronzing indicates the higher amount of activity. The main part of their nest is usually where the most damage has been established. Expect to find dead leaves and plant parts in these areas. Spider mites can sometimes result in the death of your ficus, due to their slow migration. They tend to nest around one anther forming little colonies all over your ficus plant. And as the population begins to increase, they just slowly expand outward rather than finding a new host plant.

Signs of Underwatering:

• Few flowers develop.
• Flowerbuds and leaves fall prematurely.
• Overall growth is stunted and there may be few or no new flowers developing.
• When buds come into flower they may fade fast and fall.

Remedies for the Underwatered Plants:

1. When the compost shrinks back from the sides of the pot, or becomes compacted so that water is not absorbed, the plant should cut back, properly watered and the following year’s growth allowed to develop.
2. An alternative is to remove the plant gently from its pot and to break up the root system including the potting medium - a fork will help. Then dunk the plant up to its neck in water and allow all the air bubbles to escape. Place into a pot with good drainage. Spray the leaves with fine mist and stand the plant in a cool place.

Signs of Overwatering:

• Green moss on the surface of plants
• Leaves and flowers falling prematurely
• Poor growth of the plant generally
• New leaves becoming yellow in color and developing curly edges or soft patches of mold
• If the potting medium is waterlogged, the roots will rot from lack of oxygen.

Remedies for the Overwatered Plant:

• Remove the plant from its pot and repot into fresh compost into which you have introduced some sand and grit in equal proportions. Allow the plant to dry out before commencing watering again, and then water less often until the plant’s demands appear to change.

Disadvantages of Peat-based Compost 

• It can be difficult to water once it has dried out.
• Due to its lightness there is little anchorage when potting on a large plant.